Making Pretty

Last night was knitting. I didn't go. I stayed home to sew because if asked to chose between sewing and knitting, sewing will win almost every time plus I'd spent the day making pretty in the studio and more than I wanted to knit, I wanted to spend time in my space. It didn't happen.

I spent two hours putting up a light. To thank Howard for trading spaces with me, I bought him a chandelier. He loves them - the gaudier the better. Me? Not so much. This one looked clean and simple in the store. In our bedroom, it's more ornate but not so over the top that I want to take it back.

See that circle of white? When I touched up the ceiling after the old fixture was taken down, I grabbed the wrong paint and used semi-gloss bought for the trim and not matte bought for the ceiling. That's the story of this move. What can go wrong, goes wrong. I'm not sure what the lesson is but I'm getting plenty of practice with patience and letting go - opportunities to be my best me which is...

... along the lines of the book I'm reading - Face It: Looking And Feeling Great Matters At Any Age by Vivian Diller. Here's the blurb...

Let's face it: everyone's getting older. But millions of women, raised to believe that success and happiness are based on their intelligence and accomplishments, face an unexpected challenge: the physical realities of aging. If looks are not supposed to matter, why do so many women panic as their appearance changes? Their dilemma stems from two opposing societal views of beauty which lead to two different approaches to aging. Should women simply grow old naturally since their looks don''t define them, or should they fight the signs of aging since beauty and youth are their currency and power? This Beauty Paradox leaves many women feeling stuck. Face It, by Vivian Diller, Ph.D., is a psychological guide to help women deal with the emotions brought on by their changing appearances. As a model turned psychotherapist, Diller has had the opportunity to examine the world of beauty from two very different vantage points. This unique perspective helped her develop a six-step program that begins with recognizing "uh-oh" moments that reveal the reality of changing looks, and goes on to identify the masks used to cover deeper issues and define the role beauty plays in a woman''s life, and ends with bidding adieu to old definitions of beauty, so women can enjoy their appearance--at any age!

A friend told me about the book while we were discussing a line of make-up I was considering. The total regime was four hundred dollars and involved many bottles. I've been there done that and have evolved to a smaller, shorter, routine with a quality cleanser, moisturizer, and foundation. I didn't want to trade my two minute regimen for a twenty minute one. If asked to chose between spending my time, money, and energy on fighting aging or embracing creativity, creativity wins almost every time. One of the things I love about the way I've aged is...

... an - IMHO - improved perspective. While my looks matter, they aren't my total identity. Years ago, maybe yes. Now, I approach new products and activities with the question can I sustain this? Yesterday, I was talking to a woman who has lost 142 pounds through a change in diet and exercise. When I asked her, she said she runs 1 1/2 hours a day and longer on the weekends. According to her, she can maintain that.

At one time, I'd have looked at those lost pounds, bought new running shoes, and hit the streets. Now I think really? I'd much rather go for a short but consistent walk every day, grab a new book on the other kind of fit - and fashion - and chose a yummy piece of fabric and head down to my studio to sew. I've one life to live and I chose not to spend it pursuing the perfect face and body nor lamenting what can't be changed. And that's a change from the younger me.

A song I was listening to yesterday went she ain't pretty, she just looks that way. In the morning, while I'm putting on my make-up and fluffing up my hair, it's not that I don't want to look good. I do. I'm quite vain but in a looking as good as I can reasonably look kind of way rather than a looking younger than my daughter kind of way because I'm more focused on being here in this moment and living this one life. I'd rather have an eccentric and interesting personality than perfect packaging.

I can dress up, make-up, and look pretty AND... I can read and have stimulating conversations. I can learn. I can listen. I can support and encourage and be involved with my friends and family. I can sew and knit and be creative in a way that challenges me. I can be interested and interesting in life. I can walk and remain flexible. I can't prevent wrinkles and cellulite and sagging b--bs. I can buy a good bra!

A few weeks ago, I picked up this canvas for my studio. It's a reminder to exist in my own life. When I get to the line DREAM big, it makes me stop to think. As I approach fifty, what does that mean to me now? In my twenties, when I started my business, the talk was all about follow your bliss and the money will follow. For many of us, that didn't happen in a discouraging, demoralizing way that made us wonder if we hadn't worked hard enough or if we weren't good enough.

In Malcolm Gladwell's book The Outliers he talks about that exact thing - that you may have worked hard and be amazing at what you do but the stars didn't align at the moment you needed them to align. It was a reassuring thought to read when after investing twenty years in my career, developing my work to an admirable point, and having it established in numerous high end galleries, the economy went for a bust and virtually no one is buying art never mind high end, alternative, abstract, contemporary art made from fabric.

Malcolm's book helped me to move on - on to enjoying my creativity in a way that's focused on what do I want to learn and do and create as opposed to what do they want to buy. There are realities to life that you can't get around no matter how blissed out you are. If you can't sing. You can't sing. If there's no money, there's no money. I'm glad I'm old enough to know that now and to stop fighting the same old battle and start having more fun.

My feet might be flat and pudgy with hairy toes that need waxing and calluses on the sides but isn't that polish pretty? YEAH!

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - the upside of aging

Empty Spaces And Good Lighting

Incredibly productive would be good words to describe yesterday. Not in a sewing way, in a finally getting all those nit picky little details organized way. Details like the junk drawer and the tupperware and the shoe shelf and "stuff" that makes a home function more smoothly. I finally felt like I actually live here. This is good.

The last time I showed you a picture of my fabric closet, there were fifteen boxes where the piles of fabric are now. Without eliminating any fabric - simply by taking it out of the box and putting it on the shelves - I have more room. YEAH! You can't see behind the right hand door but there's room for more stacks there and empty spaces to be filled. This is perfect especially as I'd been wondering where I'd put the fabric from my upcoming trip and now I have space. It's a given that I'll come home with more fabric since fabric and jewelry are my favourite souveniers.

The boxes on the top row hold interfacing, lining, and lingerie fabrics. It'll be much easier to keep those pieces in the boxes. The boxes on the bottom are full of assorted things like fabric scraps and pieces to be recycled. I'll sort through them some time soon and make sure it's stuff I want to keep and if so, make them more visible.

While I was sorting fabric, Howard put up the new lights in my studio. In the image below, there are two 150v bulbs and in the image above, there are two fluorescent fixtures with four full spectrum bulbs.  Good lighting - as in both the fixture and the type and quality of light bulb - makes a tremendous difference.

When we were selling our previous house, our realtor suggested changing all the light bulbs so everything would be fresh and new. To economize - since we wouldn't be staying to use them - we bought no-name bulbs from a hardware store. They were dimmer than the bulbs we'd removed so we changed them back. At the store, Phillips and GE seem to be the best although lighting stores carry even better bulbs. They're expensive but they last longer and the light is brighter and that matters to me. I'm preserving my eye sight as much as possible.

Today, I have a lot of errands and tonight is knitting. I doubt I'll have any time to sew but hopefully since everything is ready. The dress is waiting for binding around the neck and armholes and then hemming and it's done.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - electricity and quality lighting. I can't imagine sewing by candlelight.

The New New Studio

The dress is coming along beautifully. I've made changes. Of course. The pattern - Vogue 8743 - as drafted begins flaring outward at the waist which means there's a LOT of fabric at the hip point. On me, there was 42" extra inches equalling a ton of not so flattering ease. I pinned the seams smooth from the waist to the hip and began the flare at hip level so it drapes nicely. I'm really pleased with how it's developing and... more on that later... because...

... I have a new new studio. On Saturday, once the dress was far enough along that I knew it was going to work out, I finally had enough energy and will to start arranging the studio. After an hour of pushing things around - using those amazing EZ Movers shown on TV - I ended up in tears on the couch wanting my old studio back. It can't be done. Instead, I've traded spaces with my husband. I no longer have that amazing view of the valley and that's okay because I now have the type of private, defined space that I function best in.

This studio is not my smallest ever but it is smaller than my previous one at 10' 8" x 14' 3" with double glass doors into the hallway. There is no window but there is a view from my sewing machine down the hall, across the family room, and out those windows. This space reminds me of a studio I had about ten years ago. My last studio is my all time favourite. The ten year old one would be second on the list. Hopefully this new space measures up favourably once I get sewing.

I'm still sorting out the details and putting things away but the main furniture is in place. The work island is on the far wall set at an slight angle to allow for storage behind and to soften the squareness of the room. The pattern cabinet is tucked in the far corner again spaced enough from the corner to allow for storage beside. The design wall will be mounted to the right with the button shelf below.

The computer desk is on the wall at left when you enter. It's the same set-up as in my previous studio and more desk than I need now that I'm not in business - however - it's already paid for and functions well so why not. The art fabrics that sat in a basket on the floor for the past six weeks are now stored in the glass fronted cabinet. Finally.

It's been a long time since my sewing machine faced a wall. What saves this from being too harsh is the view I mentioned earlier. The double doors are at right of my machine and the hallway just outside is five feet wide. The doors will almost always be open. The serger is sitting on the guest desk and is easily moved when I have company over to sew. I'll try this configuration for now and see how it goes. If I find that I need more storage, overhead cupboards can be mounted above the desks. For now, I'm working on decreasing my stash to fit the available storage space. Almost everything has found a home. We need to put up the full spectrum fluorescent fixtures and after that I'm at the "making pretty" stage.

One of the things that had me so upset with the previous designation of space was the lack of a family room where more than two people could watch a movie or be together. Our daughter and son-in-law arrive on Thursday night and it was bothering me that we couldn't do anything together with the way things were. This way, the TV, bookshelves, games cupboard, and couches are in the space that I previously occupied and....

... Howard is set up at the other end of the room with space for both his desk and working counter, his and the boy's computers, the overhead cabinets, and his instruments with plenty of space to move around and the couches and TV nearby. Once all the "stuff" is put away, it'll be a lot neater and nicer. Right now, he has boxes stacked there ready to deal with.

The blue wall still needs to be painted and unfortunately my space is painted Howard's color and his space is painted my color but that's okay. It can be changed eventually if things work out. I may do that while the guys are off on their annual trip in July. We'll see. For now, I'm tired of painting. I just want to sew. And maybe buy a fan.

The space I'm in now was super insulated for sound and - IMHO - is a touch over done  making it quite warm. Other than that, it's all mine and wonderful and I have the world's best husband. When I approached him with the idea of trading spaces, he said the most important thing was for me to be happy. Earlier that same day, while I was working on the dress, my son said ... you're sewing - yeah - all's right with the world again! Too fun!

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - a more defined, comfortable, me, kind of studio space

Dark Denim Rich Wrinkles

You may be rather incredulous - as I was - when digging through the stash yesterday - that the thought popped into my mind that I didn't have enough fabric. Of course, what I really meant was that I didn't have enough fabric in suitable lengths for the dress I wanted to sew. LOL - an excuse to shop as soon as there's some available space.

For the prototype, I chose linen in a dark denim color. It seemed like a great choice since it softens with wear and any slight fitting issues - like my high back hip - weren't going to be a problem. I tore off both selvages before cutting out the dress because the edge was soft and pretty and might make a good accent on some kind of creative wearable project. I kept all the linen scraps for the same reason. Linen is fabulous pieced with attention to seams and details and top stitching.

Are you aware of the sewing guides at EmmaOneSock.com? They're written by the late Shannon Gifford and are a fabulous resource for learning about different fabric types. Of linen, Shannon writes: Don’t be put off by the wrinkles in linen. For many years, linen wrinkles were a status symbol; one expert calls them “rich wrinkles”! These creases were and are an indicator of the genuine linen article.

Yesterday, I traced and altered the pattern, cut out the fabric, and basted the garment with the seam allowances out to allow for easier fitting. The front opening and the shoulder seam are pin basted to allow me to get in and out and to allow for minor adjustments to the bust point although they weren't needed. The bodice fits wonderfully.

The skirt not so much. At the hips things get too full and baggy. Most likely I could go down a size or two even. I'll measure the difference between sizes, pin it out, and try that before I cut anything off but I'd rather the fabric skimmed my hips and flowed than that there was way too much which is what's happening now. 

Thanks for the feedback on the pattern choices. Even though it was the popular choice, the wrap dress had the least built in fitting options so I decided to try it another time. Instead, I chose Vogue 8743 - without the box pleat at the front - because of the princess seams. The more seams the easier fitting is and considering time is short that seemed like a good idea. I'll finish this first version this weekend and will know if I want to make the "real" thing after that. If I do, I've picked a lace with a very slight stretch.

Another reason I chose this pattern was because of the length and flow. It's interesting what we all consider dress-up. Although a sheath dress can look lovely on a lot of people, with my figure type I've always gravitated to flowing dresses and because I have a lot of varicose veins I'm most comfortable in longer dresses if I can't wear heavier tights or dark pantyhose.

At the wedding we went to last weekend, one of the women was wearing a light, drapey dress similar to Vogue 8743 which she had also worn to her daughter's graduation last year. Both times, the dress  immediately caught my eye. It is soft and feminine with a bit of a flapper feel even though styles are vastly different. I'm moving in that direction.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - a project to work on and give focus as I learn how to move in this new studio

Reading The Reviews

In just over three weeks, I'm leaving for my trip to Oregon and the workshop with Marcy Tilton and Diane Ericson. I'm going with Caroline. a friend I've known since I was sixteen. We're both turning fifty this spring and this trip is our joint celebration. So is a dress up dinner in Portland following the workshop (restaurant suggestions welcome). I need a dress. Yesterday, I spent a considerable amount of time reading the reviews at PatternReview.com. What a FABULOUS resource. Now I just have to decide which pattern to sew.

Vogue 8379 - has 111 reviews almost all of which are Highly Recommend. It's also my husband's first choice. It's the only pattern shown in this posting that does NOT have cup sizing. From what I've read, that shouldn't be an issue although it calls for a moderate stretch knit and that might be.

Vogue 8724 - has nine reviews and is mostly rated easy and great for beginners. I like it and yet have huge reservations about the shape of the skirt which - for now - most likely translates to something along the lines of try it for summer but not for your special dress. I was thinking...

... of adding the skirt from Vogue 8632 instead. This pattern has three reviews, two of which are not positive. I imagine I could work it out but I'm on a deadline. The first weekend in June my daughter and son-in-law are coming for a few days, leaving their puppy for the week, and coming back the following weekend. The Thursday following Caroline arrives and bright and early Friday morning we leave. Fiddling and perhaps fiddling with a puppy does not sound like a good idea. SO... probably another try it for summer possibility although I only wanted the skirt and the problems were with the bodice.

Vogue 8765 is too new to have any reviews. I'm drawn to the flared view of this pattern but may need to change the sleeves or at the very least add shoulder pads to give them some shape although it's a higher dolman so it may work. I tried a t-shirt on a few weeks ago that was a higher dolman and it looked good but dolman sleeves don't typically do me any favours and this is my turning fifty dress. I want to feel fabulous. It's also a quick sew so I may just give it a try and make two dresses because since I really like that view.

Vogue 8743 - has one not so positive review that sounds more like the person chose the wrong size and made too many adaptations before trying the pattern rather than that the pattern is at fault. This style is my one of my all time favourites. I find it swishy fenimine in the right fabric. In the wrong fabric, it has the potential to be too little girl. If I try this one, it'll be the longer length and I'll V the neckline and add sleeves. If you look at the Vogue site, it's sewn in a firm fabric that looks way too boxy. IMHO it needs a drapey fabric.

B5745 - is similar BUT... it definitely needs to be de-sweetened and lengthened or I'd look like a kid playing dress-up. The denim blue version would be great for summer in this the year of the dress.

Which one do you think is best?

While you're deciding, I'm off to check the stash and see what I have that's suitable and go from there. LOL - you never know, the fabric could be the deciding factor.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - choices