Monday, November 26, 2012

Weekend Sewing

Saturday morning, when I read the list of things Carolyn planned to sew over the weekend, I thought I should at least be able to finish a dress. In fabric. No more muslin. And then on Sunday morning I read the list of things she'd already completed and was ever so thankful it wasn't a competition. I'd have lost - LOL - but...

... I'm still a winner. I finished a real dress. Sort of. I'd call it more of a wearable muslin. The list of things that went wrong is extensive as is the list of discoveries made which balances out to good. The fabric turned out to be more plaid of a plaid than I thought it was - read required better pattern matching than given - with a nap that wanted to press down white and flat - read hopefully the wash improves this - but all in all I like it enough to...

... make further alterations and sew it again. The reviews alternated between I could pull it over my head and call 911 to get me out of this. My recommendation - to preserve your hair, your neck, and your chiropractic bill whichever is more important to you - is to move the zipper to center back. It's easy enough to do and an invisible zipper will preserve the style lines just fine. After I'd squiggled my way in and out a million fitting times, I redid the back otherwise the hope of me actually wearing the dress was low.

The only suitable zipper in stash was not an invisible one so I used Marcy Tilton's method for sewing a centered zipper from V8499. It's easier than any other method learned previously and works fabulously. I'd be interested in how she sews a lapped zipper. Hopefully that info is somewhere in one of her patterns that I already own. Above are the illustrations and...

... here are the instructions. You baste the opening closed, press open, place the opened zipper face down against the seam line and baste to the seam allowance only, close the zipper and lay flat basting the opposite side through all layers, turn and top stitch from the right side, remove basting, and you're finished.

The dress - Vogue 1312 - has the same look to the bottom as the Tablecloth Skirt that was so popular on Communing With Fabric. The skirt developed from the dress BUT... if you read Sham's tutorial, it makes FAR better sense than the instructions in the envelope. It's a simple matter of measuring the pattern pieces and transferring the numbers to use her method.

I think the ideal way to approach it would be a blending of Sham's technique with the pattern pieces with the method used with Marcy's V8499 skirt where the bottom is already joined to the upper skirt with a curve and ...

... the pieces are hemmed and then seamed from waist to bottom with the points formed by the shape of the seam. On this skirt, the points are lower down but the theory would be the same no matter what level they were at. Along with the other changes, I'm thinking about redrafting with this shape although when you change the front bodice, the back bodice, the sleeves, and then the skirt, you're no longer making the dress ! ! !

Here's how it looked at the I like it, it has potential stage. The bodice front and back is Vogue 8743 for a more flattering fit. The waistline is lower  than the Vogue 1312 pattern for a less pregnant look - about 1" above my waist. The upper skirt is the drafted length. The lower skirt is shorter by 2" with a 1" hem. I let the waist out 1 1/4". Next time I'll take it back in. OH... and in the end... I used the one size up, one cup size down, and a 1/2" narrow back adjustment for the best fit. Now to make the additional changes and try again.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - a wearable muslin

1 comment:

Thanks for commenting. I appreciate the feedback and the creative conversation.