Yesterday was a no make-up, stay-at-home, play in the studio kind of day. It wasn't until I watched the evening news that I learned about the bombing in Boston. It's amazing how on the same day one person experiences great joy, another unspeakable tragedy, and yet another the mundaneness of repetition. A hundred years ago, it would have taken days to hear each other's news and now it's around the world in a matter of minutes.
Why is it that a bombing in North America reverberates fear throughout first world nations while daily bombings in a country like Syria can continue relentlessly for years at a time? There's something wrong with that. There's something wrong with humanity that we can't live together in peace and instead feel a need to hurt and terrorize each other. Why? So many questions that can't be answered.
As blasé as it might seem, I'm going to talk about darts today because terror wins when we allow it to control us and while I wonder when such an event will happen closer to my home and impact more closely someone I love, I don't want to allow those who perpetuated this tragedy an extra measure of success.
I experimented with cutting one size and adding to the back hip by making a muslin of Vogue 8815. While it worked with the last t-shirt, that pattern was drafted with a curve starting above the waist and flaring out to the hips which meant there was enough waist room. With this one, there definitely was not. I've concluded that there are some instances in which one size may work and a lot of instances where it will not and which is which will be something to learn with time and experience.
In the back, I narrowed the dart to 1/8" wide. My back is flat and I don't need the depth that a dart is meant to create however, the style lines of a dart are vertical and more slimming.
In the front, I needed more depth. I made a full bust adjustment and added a bust dart. Since I haven't sewn a lot of blouses, I realized with this sample that I don't have a solid working knowledge of darts. I know how to stitch and taper to the point so it won't pucker and how to press and that the dart needs to end about 1 1/2" from the bust point and even still, I'm not getting the flattering look on the body that I'd like. I need to go to dart school.
It appears that I need to take a larger dart below the bust but I don't believe that's actually the case. It has amazed me how often I think X or Y alteration might be needed when it's actually a matter of circumference and incorrect sizing. Now I know to wait until I've made the adjustments to the waist width before deciding on the dart because pinning a dart that deep right into the bust point is not normal or doable without puckering so it's highly unlikely this is the issue. That said...
... I don't actually like the way the back peplum falls. That split is right below the zipper and - IMHO - looks bunched and tail-like.
The rest of yesterday was indecisive. I traced three patterns and changed my mind three times. In the end, I concluded it would be good to implement my new learning around alterations in some kind of step-by-step way that gradually increases the level of difficulty and at the same time I need some more clothes in my wardrobe right now and not to spend my time making endless muslins of and sewing difficult garments and of course there has to be some balance between those two thoughts to keep things fun.
Vogue 8536 is - as they say - a basic design with some neck variations. It's curved through the waist with 3/4" of easing along the side at bust level. The view top right has a cross over V neck. That's the style that's been reviewed the most. It's an interesting variation. I'm going to start with the basic round neck and see if - with my new sequence of alterations - I like this pattern more or less or about the same as my TNT New Look 6735 which is drafted similarly. This afternoon. I have appointments this morning.
Talk soon - Myrna
Grateful - multi sized patterns
I darn near had a heart attack when Chloe decided to sleep on this pile of scraps and muslins because that grey one has pins holding the sleeve in and I promised my daughter Chloe would not get pinned and luckily, she didn't. When I sew a muslin, I try to re-use whatever parts I can like cutting the next muslin's bodice out of the last muslin's skirt. I have some ideas for these piles that I haven't had time to explore yet.