If it's possible to look glamorous in muslin, she isn't me HOWEVER... I made a discovery. Perhaps THE discovery. The one that's going to make everything a lot easier.
I'm showing the side first so you can see the pulls from the bust and from the back hip. Those are all because I need a larger cup size which you can clearly see in...
... this front image where the garment is pulling up and darts are attempting to form. Why do I need to go up a cup size when several muslins ago I went down a cup size? More about that in a minute.
I was disappointed when I saw this image of the back because I expected it to be perfectly smooth however these wrinkles are most likely due to the cup size as well because the strain is pulling the fabric forward and up through the chest. Otherwise, this is a near perfect muslin and...
... this is my major discovery. Previously, when I made the narrow back and narrow chest adjustments, I returned the width at the armhole because I assumed since I measured the chest size of the pattern that I needed the width. And I don't understand why I don't but I started to think about how I'm always taking that area in so with this pink muslin, when I traced the armhole shape, I did NOT return the width at the underarm point and instead blended the new width with the width of the waist. If I'd thought a little bit longer before cutting out the muslin, I'd have realized that I then needed to go up a cup size to compensate. That's doable.
PLUS... when I look at those back wrinkles, I find myself wanting to pull up at the shoulders so I'll do a bit more pinning and slashing before putting the muslin to rest. No sewing. Just slashing through the bust line to allow it and the rest of the garment to fall into place and then pinning out the 1/4" that was added to the shoulder slope to see if it's still necessary. And then... on to a REAL GARMENT. When I showed my husband the muslin, those were his first words - so now you can sew something real? Yes. Yes I can ! ! ! !
As I was pinning and tucking yesterday, I wondered who invented the straight pin and later when I transferred the information to the tissue I thought about the French curve? This article has a lot of interesting information about straight pins, needles, and safety pins. The French curve is far more difficult to find information about. Its development is often attributed to Kirvenlineale von Gebrüder who is also credited with inventing drafting however I couldn't find any reliable source to confirm that. Both are extremely helpful. I know not everyone uses a French curve but can you imagine sewing without pins? Not.
This morning, I have an appointment and then I'm going to transfer the muslin changes to the tissue, make some really good notes, pack it all away, and sew something in pretty fabric, something I actually intend to wear. YEAH!
Talk soon - Myrna
Grateful - pins and French curves
Chloe is fascinated by the puppy park across the road. And protective. As far as she's concerned, it's her park and you other puppies need permission which she lets them know as they walk by - LOL.