Wednesday, August 14, 2013

Have More Fun

Patti and I had our weekly get together yesterday. We met at her house and I stopped to pick up Starbucks on my way to avoid arriving empty handed. Other than the skirt discussion from Monday's posting, I had nothing to bring and - luckily - that's only the first time that's happened since we started meeting weekly last fall. Normally, I have at least one thing. Since we have a similar figure type, we both benefited from the feedback on the skirts.

When I thought about it further, I decided not to finish that M6286 blouse. I had already fused the interfacing but not cut out the collar or facings yet. It seemed silly to waste that effort and expense going forward with a garment that I already knew wasn't going to fit although - just to be sure - I did pull out my measuring tape and yes, I had lost an inch in the bust so definitely the FBA was not needed. Neither was all that hip room so I pinned and tucked and treated what I had as a muslin and then re-traced the pattern, adjusted it again, and re-cut the blouse.




Besides the fit factor, I wanted to have more fun and show off the style lines. There are eight darts, two seams between the center fronts and side fronts, and the raglan seam lines that were all calling out for top stitching plus I changed the sleeve to the 3/4 version and added the placket and cuff which also needed top stitching - with lime green - using a gorgeous King Tut 40-weight cotton thread - LOL - one of my favourite colors - and aren't these the perfect buttons to go with?




If you were to look at my sewing up close, you'd find that I'm neat and precise, that I use hand stitching when it will benefit and shortcuts where they make sense. I don't use a lot of fancy seam finishes unless I'm making an unlined jacket and they'll show. Mostly, I use a neatly serged and well pressed seam. I also avoid adding unnecessary bulk. The placket is one of those places. I cut a 1 1/8" bias strip, serged one edge, and stitched the opposite edge to the placket opening using a generous 1/4" seam.




Then I wrapped the bias strip around the seam allowance, pinned it in place, and top stitched in the ditch to secure the layers together.




This creates a neat - and as flat as possible - with one less layer because it wasn't necessary anyway - placket that I then chose to...




... top stitch in lime green. When I add the cuff, I'll use a hammer to flatten the extra bulk of the placket edge stitched to the seam allowance on the ends of the cuff. There will be eight instead of nine layers of fabric there. I learned the hammer tip from Sandra Betzina and Ron Collin's DVD on sewing jeans and use it anywhere there's bulk in a garment. It's fabulous. I keep a small, light-weight hammer in the studio just for me.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - although it's not the greatest contract, it is signed and the uncertainty and tension around Howard's work can now settle down. It took FOREVER.

8 comments:

  1. I love your lime green and denim combo. With the fitting out of the way your new version will be fun and fit you! YAY! I'm with you about the fancy finishes. Clean and neat works, especially since it won't show to anyone but you. I like your continuous lap technique...if (no) WHEN I make up the lime green shirting for myself I'll use it.

    So glad to read about Howard's contract. Such a weight off your mind! Just so stressful!

    Well I feel like I woke up with a grey cloud over my head. Late meeting last night and then a bad sleep. AND...lots to to. So I'm going to buckle down to it! Have a good day today,

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    1. I debated purple and denim but since I just did purple and black with the Marcy dress, I decided on this combo and I really like it.

      The fit would have been fine if I hadn't lost that bust inch I'd added with the FBA and when I measured I'd lost an inch on the bust, waist, and hips so I took the sides in as well instead of having shrunk out of my clothes while sewing them.

      I think there will be some residual anger over the contract as it is far from fair and does not indicate the company's respect for the concessions the men have made in the last three contracts. And true to form, there's a big announcement about to be made. If it's a make lots of money announcement, then there may be some issues around not bargaining in good faith... that they would - IMHO - deserve.

      Hope your grey cloud goes away and you have a good day.

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  2. whew on Howard's contract, i know exactly how difficult that can be so - exhale! ;)

    and the only thing i love more than lime green is acid green ;) gorgeous palette, perfect buttons, nice nice nice! i did a short blog post with those columns, read the descriptions of fabrications to get more of a feel for the texture story. and i busted thru a block i had on one garment with a collar that's cracking me up, plus got two gorgeous lengths of fabrics to make a jacket and vest for fall/winter i could really use. yay!

    off to do family stuff, have a great day! steph

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    1. See the note I wrote to Jodie. Could be other issues pending. Time will tell.

      My lime is more blue than acid. I tend to lean toward blue based colors.

      Looking forward to reading the post. Thanks for letting me know. What about the collar is cracking you up? Too funny. Almost done my top.

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  3. Hammer! I Will Definitely Use That Next Time... HehE... Thanks For.Sharing...

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    1. You're welcome. I took some pictures today of what a difference it makes and I'll put them in tomorrow's posting.

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  4. I too love the hammer trick and learned it from the same source. I use it often. Just like you, n a cuff. I once shared it woth 4h kids and the boys loved to hammer! Last time I did forget to use a pressing cloth so I have a stain from the hammer, darn it! Thanks for sharing your sewing awesomeness with us!

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    1. It's a fabulous trick. I know everyone I share it with is thrilled. You're welcome to my "sewing awesomeness" - what a lovely phrase. Thank you for allowing me to share.

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Thanks for commenting. I appreciate the feedback and the creative conversation.