Patti and I had our weekly get together yesterday. We met at her house and I stopped to pick up Starbucks on my way to avoid arriving empty handed. Other than the skirt discussion from Monday's posting, I had nothing to bring and - luckily - that's only the first time that's happened since we started meeting weekly last fall. Normally, I have at least one thing. Since we have a similar figure type, we both benefited from the feedback on the skirts.
When I thought about it further, I decided not to finish that M6286 blouse. I had already fused the interfacing but not cut out the collar or facings yet. It seemed silly to waste that effort and expense going forward with a garment that I already knew wasn't going to fit although - just to be sure - I did pull out my measuring tape and yes, I had lost an inch in the bust so definitely the FBA was not needed. Neither was all that hip room so I pinned and tucked and treated what I had as a muslin and then re-traced the pattern, adjusted it again, and re-cut the blouse.
Besides the fit factor, I wanted to have more fun and show off the style lines. There are eight darts, two seams between the center fronts and side fronts, and the raglan seam lines that were all calling out for top stitching plus I changed the sleeve to the 3/4 version and added the placket and cuff which also needed top stitching - with lime green - using a gorgeous King Tut 40-weight cotton thread - LOL - one of my favourite colors - and aren't these the perfect buttons to go with?
If you were to look at my sewing up close, you'd find that I'm neat and precise, that I use hand stitching when it will benefit and shortcuts where they make sense. I don't use a lot of fancy seam finishes unless I'm making an unlined jacket and they'll show. Mostly, I use a neatly serged and well pressed seam. I also avoid adding unnecessary bulk. The placket is one of those places. I cut a 1 1/8" bias strip, serged one edge, and stitched the opposite edge to the placket opening using a generous 1/4" seam.
Then I wrapped the bias strip around the seam allowance, pinned it in place, and top stitched in the ditch to secure the layers together.
This creates a neat - and as flat as possible - with one less layer because it wasn't necessary anyway - placket that I then chose to...
... top stitch in lime green. When I add the cuff, I'll use a hammer to flatten the extra bulk of the placket edge stitched to the seam allowance on the ends of the cuff. There will be eight instead of nine layers of fabric there. I learned the hammer tip from Sandra Betzina and Ron Collin's DVD on sewing jeans and use it anywhere there's bulk in a garment. It's fabulous. I keep a small, light-weight hammer in the studio just for me.
Talk soon - Myrna
Grateful - although it's not the greatest contract, it is signed and the uncertainty and tension around Howard's work can now settle down. It took FOREVER.