My daughter and grandson went to visit a friend about an hour and a half north of us yesterday so I spent some time in the studio working on the OOP Vogue 1113 Lynn Mizono jacket.
What I liked about this design was the architectural elements, especially the collar and cuffs. There's not much shape. The design is a combination of three big pieces of fabric and some facings. I chose a sweater knit to see if more drape would make it more approachable. By eliminating the seam down center back and cutting on fold, I saved half a meter of fabric which is good because I have enough left to sew a trumpet skirt that'd be gorgeous for winter.
There are stop and start stitching marks at the end of the shoulder seams to allow for the facings. Note in the diagram above how you'd need to pull the fabric to match up the notches on the underarm seam. Observe on the pattern envelope how the shoulder sits and how the sleeve hangs.
When you smooth out the shoulder seam, the underarm seam is twisted and when you smooth out the underarm seam, the shoulder is twisted. It doesn't seem like it's going to work and yet...
... on Millicent, it hangs quite well. In the image above, the shoulder and underarm seams are stitched and pressed open and the sleeve facings are stitched, trimmed, pressed, and turned. This was far enough for me to see that even though the softer fabric made a substantial difference, this is not the style for me. It's fun and it's too much fabric which is about what we all expected.
There's enough fabric in these big pieces to cut up and sew something else however... before I do that... I thought I'd offer the partially sewn jacket, the remaining facings, and the pattern for $20.00 plus the cost of shipping. If there's any interest, I'll mail it. If not, I'll take it apart. It's cut in a size eight with a 15 3/4" center back length. My full bust is 39" and there's plenty of room.
These six patterns have been a fabulous learning experience. I've discovered that peplums are no longer for me. While they flattered the last time around - when I was younger - I think - I hope - they now make me feel like some weird combo of fat lady and little girl. So no more peplums even if they're hidden in a jacket shape like Vogue 8767 that I think I can make look good on me by using a softer, sweater-like fabric. NO - don't go there.
I've observed that skirts with any kind of volume at the hip or significant width through the waist like the Vogue 1333 skirt is way too much fabric while at the same time many of those details could look better on a dress with flow from shoulder to hem like the Vogue 1297 dress. Keep it smooth from shoulder to hip and play near the hemline.
I've reconfirmed that raglan sleeves do nothing to flatter my figure even if all the other details of the design are right. It's way too much fabric under the arm. When I get the pattern back, I'll try tracing a different arm shape onto OOP McCall's 6286 because the waist and front opening were fabulous.
I'm learning to keep in mind that large pieces of fabric are unlikely to be flattering whether they're in the lower garment or the upper garment. More seams equals more shape and closer to the body is better. The Vogue 1113 jacket does not matched that criteria. Too much fabric is still too much fabric even if it's pretty, soft, and draping.
Only a third of the six patterns worked out well. They are the two above - Sandra Betzina's Vogue 1297 dress and Marcy Tilton's OOP Vogue 8397 pants. Both are closer to the body from shoulder to hip and have smoother, lower, architectural moments. With the pants, I'm wearing Katherine Tilton's Vogue 8691 top which has been a highly successful for me. I've sewn numerous tops and one dress from this pattern. You can see the commonalities between it and the other two.
I have a few other projects I want to work on first and then I'm going to try choosing another six patterns based on the what works observations from these six to see if I can find that magic mix of details and shape... or at least up my odds.
Talk soon - Myrna
Grateful - two new garments I really like and a list of thoughts to consider