My loosely set and keep me sane goal last week was to stitch five little girl twirl coats. Things were going along quite well until I got to the third one... which refused to play nice... and still refuses to. After three attempts to finish its neckline, the edge was so chopped off and stretched out that I ended up remaking the bodice and front band only to discover that - and luckily before I made the buttons holes - and even though I'd measured a gazillion times - one band was longer than the other. FRUSTATING.
Yesterday, I replaced the shorter band and then noticed a slight error at the top where one collar extends further toward center front than the other. Totally my fault. I forgot all about measuring that section. I'm ignoring it. You'd only know because I told you. I'm also ignoring its button-less state until it makes up its mind whether it's going to co-operate or not. Right now, we're glaring at each other - LOL - all of which means that you may see the third coat tomorrow or possibly the fourth because I've jumped the queue and started on the next one - which is so not me - and oh well. HOWEVER ...
... today is version two of (hopefully) five with the recycled greyish black boucle-like fabric from the Lynn Mizono jacket that wasn't plus black plus lime. The hem is selvage strips left over from a project made YEARS ago. It was rolled up in my trim basket and found while looking for something else... which I never did... because this was perfect.
The seams are sewn to the outside with black serger thread and then zigzagged over with lime. That sounds like a lot of extra work but it was actually easier than an all in one step with the serger. When I threaded it with...
... all lime or some lime and some black, the weight and texture of the threads was too different and I couldn't get the tension adjusted correctly. Since I didn't want to fight with tension, I went with an extra run of zigzag and it worked so well that I used the same technique on jacket three.... which is fighting with me... as I said... but not over zigzag stitching.
With recycled fabrics you may or may not have enough yardage. That creates a fabulous challenge. How will I fill in the blank? How will I integrate the entire look? What will I leave out? What will I include? In this case, I used black to fill in the spaces and lime detailing to pull it all together. The rows of stitching across the back yoke were done with a double needle.
The upper collar is pieced with lime detailing. The lower collar is black with lime edging. They are two separate pieces attached only at the neck edge. I serged the collar in place with the right side of the collar against the wrong side of the neck edge and then flipped it up and over. The serging forms a collar stand of sorts.
The front band is solid black with lime stitching and lime buttons. These are the ones that I'd originally wanted to put on yesterday's coat. You can see why they are better here.
This version doesn't have the godets so it's less full and seems to drape better even though there's still plenty of twirl. I'm trying it again with different fabrics. I may prefer this version... or perhaps something in the middle... where I widen the side pieces instead of inserting the godets. It's something to think about.
Talk soon - Myrna
Grateful - my studio