Tuesday, September 3, 2013

The Lynn Mizono Jacket That Wasn't

My loosely set and keep me sane goal last week was to stitch five little girl twirl coats. Things were going along quite well until I got to the third one... which refused to play nice... and still refuses to. After three attempts to finish its neckline, the edge was so chopped off and stretched out that I ended up remaking the bodice and front band only to discover that - and luckily before I made the buttons holes - and even though I'd measured a gazillion times - one band was longer than the other. FRUSTATING.




Yesterday, I replaced the shorter band and then noticed a slight error at the top where one collar extends further toward center front than the other. Totally my fault. I forgot all about measuring that section. I'm ignoring it. You'd only know because I told you. I'm also ignoring its button-less state until it makes up its mind whether it's going to co-operate or not. Right now, we're glaring at each other - LOL - all of which means that you may see the third coat tomorrow or possibly the fourth because I've jumped the queue and started on the next one - which is so not me - and oh well. HOWEVER ...





... today is version two of (hopefully) five with the recycled greyish black boucle-like fabric from the Lynn Mizono jacket that wasn't plus black plus lime. The hem is selvage strips left over from a project made YEARS ago. It was rolled up in my trim basket and found while looking for something else... which I never did... because this was perfect.




The seams are sewn to the outside with black serger thread and then zigzagged over with lime. That sounds like a lot of extra work but it was actually easier than an all in one step with the serger. When I threaded it with...




... all lime or some lime and some black, the weight and texture of the threads was too different and I couldn't get the tension adjusted correctly. Since I didn't want to fight with tension, I went with an extra run of zigzag and it worked so well that I used the same technique on jacket three.... which is fighting with me... as I said... but not over zigzag stitching.





With recycled fabrics you may or may not have enough yardage. That creates a fabulous challenge. How will I fill in the blank? How will I integrate the entire look? What will I leave out? What will I include? In this case, I used black to fill in the spaces and lime detailing to pull it all together. The rows of stitching across the back yoke were done with a double needle.




The upper collar is pieced with lime detailing. The lower collar is black with lime edging. They are two separate pieces attached only at the neck edge. I serged the collar in place with the right side of the collar against the wrong side of the neck edge and then flipped it up and over. The serging forms a collar stand of sorts.




The front band is solid black with lime stitching and lime buttons. These are the ones that I'd originally wanted to put on yesterday's coat. You can see why they are better here.

This version doesn't have the godets so it's less full and seems to drape better even though there's still plenty of twirl. I'm trying it again with different fabrics. I may prefer this version... or perhaps something in the middle... where I widen the side pieces instead of inserting the godets. It's something to think about.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - my studio

20 comments:

  1. I love these little coats you make.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks. It's play and a wonderful way to use up left over bits.

      Delete
  2. This is just gorgeous. I love the subtlety of the lime detailing being done with simple threadwork. Can't wait to see the others in this grouping.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. LOL - lime being my favourite color. Three and I finally came to agreement and it's finished and ready for it's photo session. Purple. Another favourite color.

      Delete
  3. Gosh...I'm envious of how much fun you're having with those little coats! I loved yesterday's, but this one is even better!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. LOL - amidst a melt down. The coast can all be so vastly different and still all wonderful which really goes to show that there is more than one right answer in most situations and that the other answers can be equally fun to explore. Love that. Applicable to life.

      Delete
  4. Oh gosh, I ADORE these little coats!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. And they are happy to be adored. Thank you.

      Delete
  5. I would absolutely love to wear that coat! Honestly. I want one.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. LOL - I wish I had one available in your size. Glad you like it.

      Delete
  6. Wonderful! Each one seems to speak to the imagination, with a different story to tell. Can"t wait to see them all. Elle

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes... and yet they are connected to other stories because of the use of remnants or the connection of color. Lime went from the first to the second. Black from the second to the third. Purple from the third to the fourth. Not sure about five yet.

      Delete
  7. Gorgeous. Loving the twin collar and the lime is a brilliant addition. Great work.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you. I did a twin collar on a previous version and really liked how it turned out. I like the way it eliminates bulk.

      Delete
  8. Hi Myrna,
    I am enjoying seeing what you've up with the little girl coats. Me thinks you need one too. :-) Here is one that I found for you after a quick search on Pattern Review: http://sewing.patternreview.com/Patterns/35226 This swingy Vogue coat looks like it has several design options for you. And it looks like it should be easy to fit.
    Keep on creating ~
    Carrie

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks for the suggestion. The secret to Koos designs is REALLY nice fabric with great drape. That is a style I'd enjoy. I recently bought Simplicity 1719 because it's similar to a sweater I wear all the time and will surely wear out at some point.

      http://www.simplicity.com/p-8192-misses-coat-jacket-and-hat.aspx

      It's good to hear from you. You haven't commented in a while and I'd been wondering how you were.

      Delete
    2. Thank you for wondering about me... I stopped reading sewing blogs for a while, but missed my favs including yours and am back. Mostly I lurk. :-)

      That Simplicity one is cute! After I sent you the Vogue link, I thought, "Myrna would like waist definition more than the Koos coat", and thought of this one I'd seen on Pattern Review. Unfortunately, it looks like it recently became OOP. Maybe you already own it?
      http://www.simplicity.com/p-5492-misses-capes.aspx

      Carrie

      Delete
    3. Welcome back.

      I do prefer more waist definition but a cape could be fun. I don't already own that Simplicity pattern but I vaguely recall seeing it made up on some blog some where. It's quite nice. I own more Vogue patterns than any other brand because of the great online sales. New Look and Simplicity are currently carried at the local fabric store but I hear they're phasing them out. Too bad. There are some cute and less expensive designs.

      Delete

Thanks for commenting. I appreciate the feedback and the creative conversation.