Mid January, I sewed a pair of pajama pants and made the silliest of mistakes sewing the two fronts together at the inseam. Actually, I serged them together. Since it was pajamas, which typically have quite a bit more ease, I cut off the seam allowance and continued on. Later, when I tried them on, I noticed something interesting. The shortened front extension fit a LOT better.
Yesterday, I started sewing Burda 7400. I love these pants. I already have three pairs which my friend tells me is more than enough of the same pattern HOWEVER... they're too big which means I can have another pair. YES YES
The front crotch extension is quite short and the back is more L shaped - like me. This may be why I love the way they fit.
To check my crotch length, I fastened a 1" elastic around my waist and then measured from front to back placing the break just below my lady part. When I measured the pattern along the seam line, the front was exactly the correct length and the back was 1 3/8" too short... which makes sense...
... because I've been scooping the crotch... because I thought I had to... only I recently learned how pants are drafted from a skirt block and how the crotch really is determined by the waist. Adding the extra length using a wedge tapered from 1 3/8" at center back to nothing at the side seam created the higher front, lower back shape I need. As you can see...
... the extra length that I was previously scooping to is now already there. When I tried the pants on, they fit near to perfect. Once the waistband is in place, I'll know for sure but it could be that the Burda butt and I are a good match.
AND... as a bonus...... ignoring the flab... look at how it also solves the tipped waist scenario. The back was automatically drafted higher than the front. YES YES ! ! ! I love it when I learn things that make sewing simpler. I can't wait to add the waistband today and see how they look. I could definitely use more pants and I'm happy to transfer this crotch curve if it turns out to be as amazing as it looks to be turning out.
THANK YOU for all the compliments on the dress yesterday. They have me thinking about a shorter and flared silhouette. It's not one I've contemplated often. I think the fabric was a huge factor in my success. Above is the same dress sewn last summer in a woven. I love all the details I put into it but it's not nearly as comfortable to wear and feels short as opposed to flirty. Isn't it fascinating what the fabric factor does?
Talk soon - Myrna
Grateful - the difference that just a bit more information can make, knowledge