Tuesday, February 18, 2014

The Burda Butt And I Are A Good Match

Mid January, I sewed a pair of pajama pants and made the silliest of mistakes sewing the two fronts together at the inseam. Actually, I serged them together. Since it was pajamas, which typically have quite a bit more ease, I cut off the seam allowance and continued on. Later, when I tried them on, I noticed something interesting. The shortened front extension fit a LOT better.





Yesterday, I started sewing Burda 7400. I love these pants. I already have three pairs which my friend tells me is more than enough of the same pattern HOWEVER... they're too big which means I can have another pair. YES YES





The front crotch extension is quite short and the back is more L shaped - like me. This may be why I love the way they fit.





To check my crotch length, I fastened a 1" elastic around my waist and then measured from front to back placing the break just below my lady part. When I measured the pattern along the seam line, the front was exactly the correct length and the back was 1 3/8" too short... which makes sense...





... because I've been scooping the crotch... because I thought I had to... only I recently learned how pants are drafted from a skirt block and how the crotch really is determined by the waist. Adding the extra length using a wedge tapered from 1 3/8" at center back to nothing at the side seam created the higher front, lower back shape I need. As you can see...





... the extra length that I was previously scooping to is now already there. When I tried the pants on, they fit near to perfect. Once the waistband is in place, I'll know for sure but it could be that the Burda butt and I are a good match.





AND... as a bonus...... ignoring the flab... look at how it also solves the tipped waist scenario. The back was automatically drafted higher than the front. YES YES ! ! ! I love it when I learn things that make sewing simpler. I can't wait to add the waistband today and see how they look. I could definitely use more pants and I'm happy to transfer this crotch curve if it turns out to be as amazing as it looks to be turning out.





THANK YOU for all the compliments on the dress yesterday. They have me thinking about a shorter and flared silhouette. It's not one I've contemplated often. I think the fabric was a huge factor in my success. Above is the same dress sewn last summer in a woven. I love all the details I put into it but it's not nearly as comfortable to wear and feels short as opposed to flirty. Isn't it fascinating what the fabric factor does?

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - the difference that just a bit more information can make, knowledge

8 comments:

  1. I love your posts about pants and crotch curves. I learned so much from you a couple of years ago and I continue to take that information into my latest forays with pants. I too need a higher back and a really short front curve. I may email you to ask for some advice about my best approach in dealing with my latest challenge (on the Claudia pants I've made 4 muslins of!).

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    1. LOL - I had a question privately emailed about how did I make that adjustment and I'll - hopefully - be providing the answer tomorrow. Need to finish these pants and then make some illustrations. PLEASE do email for advice. I'd love to help. Glad I have been in the past.

      Question... when you're making the muslin, are you drawing the vertical and horizontal hip, crotch, knee, and straight of grain lines on them? That can be extremely informative. I don't remember seeing the lines in your posting. I'll check asap.

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  2. That might be my problem with the way the pants I make fit. I'm going to try it your way...thank you!

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    1. Try a whole bunch of different ways and see what works. Eventually you'll hit on your solution. Good luck.

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  3. Yesterday in your comment to my comment, you mentioned not knowing if Sew Expo had a coat check. Well, they do sort of. It's called a "Package Check" or as my sewing group calls it, the "Bag Check". I looked online to see if I could provide a link, but the website only mentions it in passing on the FAQs page about the tenth question: http://www.sewexpo.com/faq-562.htm The Bag Check is a fundraiser for some group and I believe it's a $1 a bag with return privileges. Bring some kind of bag you that you want to toss your coat in and all the purchases you'll make. :) Many of the venders have bags too if you'd rather go that route.
    Carrie

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    1. Thanks. I'll watch for that and pack a bag. It's so much easier when you don't have to carry everything around.

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  4. I too have a Burda butt! We seem to be a great group. They are just so fabulous and flattering, congrats!
    Nice pants!
    I really love the dress too, you are so ready for summer.

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    1. Thanks for the compliment... and the company. We are indeed a great group. The dress is a sweater knit so probably too hot for winter where I live but I definitely want to make it again in a summer weight knit. I'm thinking of mixing several prints and maybe even a sleeveless version although that's really stretching things for me - VBG.

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Thanks for commenting. I appreciate the feedback and the creative conversation.