Early Wednesday morning, my oldest son and I are driving to Calgary to visit my daughter and her family and when we get back Howard and my youngest son will be home from their trip to Guatemala which means that tomorrow is my last day of sleeping in and moving slow before life returns to our regular routine.
This morning, I sewed the button on the Burda 8157 pants and took some mirror pictures. The pants turned out pretty good. There's a little tweaking I want to explore but that will always be the case since I love the challenge of figuring things out.
In Pants For Real People, author Pati Palmer notes that pants sewn from a stretch fabric will always have front wrinkles although I think these are - in part - LOL - due to the fact that I ate breakfast right before taking these pictures.
One of the reasons I like trouser style pants is the way the side seams hang. On me, the side seam of tighter pants will start downward and then move backward for my high hip, forward for my thighs, somewhat straight for my flat derriere, and then backward for my protruding calves. It's a wobbly line. In the past, I haven't paid much attention to my thighs but when I made the muslin for these, I realized that I needed to factor them in more.
I sewed the muslin from a woven fabric a size smaller and then decided the pants were too tight especially through the thigh so I went up a size and probably shouldn't have for this particular fabric with it's stretch factor. I ended up taking the side seam in all the way down to the hem which may have thrown the leg slightly off balance. If you look at the grading on a pant pattern, it is wider at the waist and hips and narrows toward the hem. These pants are not unwearable though. In fact, I really like them until...
... I look at this view. I was surprised to see those wrinkles below the butt. I need to do some further research but they may be caused by too long of a back crotch extension. I tried...
... taking a one inch tapered tuck out of the back crotch length and that did help but not enough to be the complete answer.
The Burda crotch curve definitely follows my shape with the shorter front crotch extension, longer back one, and downward drop so it's in the right general direction and simply needs fine tuning. I'm going to pin a tuck into the pants to shorten the back crotch extension and see how it changes those wrinkles. Unfortunately, I cut out my next pair of pants last night before I took these pictures and that's okay. I can baste them together first depending on what I learn from the pinning and tucking and... as I said... these ones are not unwearable. In fact, they're tremendously better than ready-to-wear. YES YES ! ! !
Talk soon - Myrna
Grateful - a clean house, two days in the studio