Thursday, May 8, 2014

Something To Explore

Mending and alterations are not my favourite forms of sewing. While it's good that I can, that doesn't mean I want to except... I really love these black Burda 7400 pants other than the waist. Normally an elastic waist is fine only this fabric is fairly thick and I've lost an inch or so and the resulting waistband feels too bulky so...





... I picked it off and took in center back and the side seams and added two darts each side in the back and one dart each side in the front and then...





... interfaced and sewed the waistband back on. Today, I'll add a zipper at center back using...





... this application method from Marcy Tilton's Vogue 8499. It's for a centered zipper and is much easier than any other method I've tried. I plan to extend the zipper into the waistband and eliminate a button.





I also worked on fine tuning the crotch of the Burda 8157 pants that I sewed last month and I'm learning some interesting things about crotch lengths.





Most patterns are drafted with a J shaped crotch. Mine is more L shaped with a high front and a low back like the shape shown in the previous picture BUT... it's more square like the way it's pinned out in the picture above. If you think of an L, there is a short length and a long length and the two combined equal the total length. Where the break is makes a huge difference. It has to be in the right place and the total of the two lengths must equal the back crotch length. When I stitched the squared out shape, I lengthened the short length to match my body. The long length was then too long and the back waistband needs to be lowered to fit more accurately. This has me thinking about the relationship between the hip depth, the waist level, and the crotch shape and length. Interesting. Something to explore.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - something to explore - LOL - I love learning.

2 comments:

  1. I can't wait for you to figure out and simplify all those crotch relationships (maybe there was a better way to phrase that?) and share them with those of us whose eyes start rolling once we get two or more compensating adjustments buzzing around. Every RTW pants I buy are a touch too short in the center back, way too long in the front crotch while still cutting into me when I sit, and wonky in the stride. Seems like that should be a simple fix to make happen on a pattern, but it eludes me.

    ReplyDelete
  2. I do not like alterations! It took me two months to hem a pair of RTW trousers. Of course it only took a few minutes to do...

    Pants are interesting. I've not veered from my simplicity pattern cause it works :)

    ReplyDelete

Thanks for commenting. I appreciate the feedback and the creative conversation.