Thursday, May 22, 2014

That's How It Looked

A few weeks ago, I wondered if I would be heading off on holiday with nothing to wear - nothing new that is - but slowly and surely my wardrobe is coming together. I bought two tops and three sweaters and have sewn two dresses, a skirt, and two pairs of pants including...





... one of out-of-print Vogue 8397, view A in the middle. I'm not comfortable in ankle length pants so I added two inches to wear them with flats. These are the same pants...





... that I sewed last year. They're very fun to wear. The ones above are a size larger and were sewn from a cotton that wrinkles far too much and is annoying to press. Since they're now too big, I've put those ones in the to be refashioned box and chose...





... a black and charcoal stripe, unknown fiber, with a bit of Lycra that doesn't wrinkle but still presses well fabric for this new pair. They are finished except for the waistband which I'll do this morning before sewing another one of the tops shown above, this time in a black and white paisley design. I cut it out last night so it's all ready to go as soon as the pants are finished.

I tried something new for this latest pair of pants based on a comment Kristin made in a post a few weeks back. She was writing about fitting pants and mentioned something about crotch extensions and flat derrieres and wrinkles that I can't remember exactly but none-the-less had me thinking about how wide and how deep a body might be compared to the pattern. I have no idea what body depth is used for drafting nor how mine compares. But it got me wondering about whether I'm flatter than the pattern draft.

In the past, I've experimented with the shape of the crotch curve and have determined that I am L versus J shaped plus my hip depth is 8" and not the 9" that patterns are drafted with. For this pair, I shortened the hip depth, squared out the back crotch, and then shortened the front and back crotch extensions by 1/4" each or 1/2" in total. I arrived at that amount by pin fitting the tuck first. On another pair of pants I may need a different amount however, from what I can tell, this pulled the pants in snugger to my body and eliminated the bagging in the back. Or I'm hopeful that's what actually happened since that's how it looked all pinned and tucked. Once the waistband is on, I'll be able to tell better. Pictures asap.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - sewing blogs, sharing information

2 comments:

  1. I don't think most drafters consider body depth when creating patterns. It's a continuing issue for me as I am definitely as deep as I am wide. Somehow, we have to figure out, where we differ from their charts and adapt the pattern to fit our bodies.

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    1. I think the depth is arrived at through the formulas for creating the draft but that's only guessing and I'd imagine that's for the "perfect" figure. I remember contemplating depth in terms of the armhole and the crotch is a similar shape going backward and forward from center crotch (underarm). When I finished the pants, it was much better but still needs some tweaking as to the exact point at which the crotch begins to curve. Next time, I'll try pinning it out of the front only and see what that does.

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