And then - when everything is clean and ready - I'll do some more work on Butterick 5881. One of the great things about this pattern is the underdress. There are nineteen pieces for the entire dress, two of which are the front and back of the underdress. These can be sewn as a muslin and fitted before doing a lot of work to the other pieces.
Another great thing is the shaping through the back. It works well for a small back waist, and high hips. See how the dress fits smoothly over the model's back with no gaping under the arm. That's an important aspect to achieve especially if you want to avoid the tent look. Quite a few of the reviews talk about having to take the side seam in. To me, that means they sewed the wrong size which affects numerous other aspects.
Here's what happened when I cut the size that suggested for my bust. Not only is the armhole far too low, there's way too much ease. Below...
... I pinned in a one inch tuck on each side which removed four inches of ease and reduced the bodice two sizes. Tracing the smaller size will raise the armhole and neckline BUT... just because it fits... doesn't mean a full bust adjustment isn't required. See those diagonal lines coming from the bust point to the hip. That means a full bust adjustment so...
... I went down two sizes in the bodice, merged that line to the original hip size, and added a one inch full bust adjustment. Above you can see how the bodice hugs the underarm better and the diagonal lines are now gone. I will raise the armhole even more and then make the adjustments to the rest of the pieces and decide on the fabric. Sewing two muslins first was well worth the work. It didn't take very long and now I'm confident that the dress has the best opportunity of looking good on me.
Talk soon - Myrna
Grateful - an underdress to muslin
If a man does not keep pace with his companions, perhaps it is because he hears a different drummer. Let him step to the music which he hears, however measured or far away.
- Henry David Thoreau