Thursday, July 17, 2014

Just Because It Fits

My daughter and grandson are coming for a visit tomorrow till Tuesday so today - before I do anything else - is a day of cleaning and shopping and baby proofing the house since he is now walking and exploring further than the mat you sat him on. Fun but a bit more work.





And then - when everything is clean and ready - I'll do some more work on Butterick 5881. One of the great things about this pattern is the underdress. There are nineteen pieces for the entire dress, two of which are the front and back of the underdress. These can be sewn as a muslin and fitted before doing a lot of work to the other pieces.





Another great thing is the shaping through the back. It works well for a small back waist, and high hips. See how the dress fits smoothly over the model's back with no gaping under the arm. That's an important aspect to achieve especially if you want to avoid the tent look. Quite a few of the reviews talk about having to take the side seam in. To me, that means they sewed the wrong size which affects numerous other aspects.





Here's what happened when I cut the size that suggested for my bust. Not only is the armhole far too low, there's way too much ease. Below...





... I pinned in a one inch tuck on each side which removed four inches of ease and reduced the bodice two sizes. Tracing the smaller size will raise the armhole and neckline BUT... just because it fits... doesn't mean a full bust adjustment isn't required. See those diagonal lines coming from the bust point to the hip. That means a full bust adjustment so...





... I went down two sizes in the bodice, merged that line to the original hip size, and added a one inch full bust adjustment. Above you can see how the bodice hugs the underarm better and the diagonal lines are now gone. I will raise the armhole even more and then make the adjustments to the rest of the pieces and decide on the fabric. Sewing two muslins first was well worth the work. It didn't take very long and now I'm confident that the dress has the best opportunity of looking good on me.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - an underdress to muslin

If a man does not keep pace with his companions, perhaps it is because he hears a different drummer. Let him step to the music which he hears, however measured or far away.
- Henry David Thoreau

15 comments:

  1. Well worth the effort to have a dress that is uniquely you in every way. This dress is a friend's favorite because it is so chic and comfortable. Great start to what I am sure will be a wonderful new garment.

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    1. I do think it's worth the effort and you only have to do it once. The next time, you can cut and sew.

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  2. What a difference a few adjustments make :-)

    Love the quote! I hear a different drummer - it can be lonely at times, as you're not part of the "crowd" - but then, who said being part of the "crowd" was all that and a bag of chips anyway? :-)

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    1. I know. Sometimes just a 1/4" can make a huge difference. If those of us who march to different drummers, march together than it's not quite so lonely. I have come to prefer being unaverage but it did take a while and on a bad day...

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    2. I saw a quote on the cover of a journal at Chapters today, and thought of you - it's a quote attributed to Albert Einstein... Creativity is Intelligence having fun. Love that idea!!!

      I rather like being one of a kind too :-)

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    3. LOVE the quote. I'll have to look for it at our Chapters.

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    4. Here's the link to it on the Chapters website...

      http://www.chapters.indigo.ca/paper/spiral-notebook-chalkboard/846307015374-item.html?LangType=4105&__lang=en-CA

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    5. OH - and it looks like it's my favourite color. Need to check that one out. Thanks for the link.

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  3. oh, that muslin looks really great and i'm ultra-curious to see what you do with this design! i can't say i *enjoy* muslins, but boy they are so so worth it.

    A few weeks ago my husband was talking to my mom and expressed concerns about my mental state - he'd looked into my closet and seen i'd been making dresses out of our old, worn-out sheets (very big eyes). I explained the concept of the 'test garment' to him between bursts of giggles. Oh, one of the best laughs of my life!

    Have a great visit!! steph

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    1. I actually enjoy making muslins. They're so quick and yet give you a lot of valuable information from tweaking to no way, I'm not sewing that. They've saved me a lot of frustration.

      LOL - too funny with your husband. Nice that he's aware. Mine knows what a muslin is only because he's had to take a million pictures of Myrna in muslin... as have my children. No one gets a break around here.

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  4. Those blasted diagonal lines from bust point to side hip happen to me all the time. So I tuck and tuck some more until nothing fits..... I can sew, sort of, (consider me at 3rd grade compared to your doctorate level) but what I'm struggling to do is create a well fitting garment I can be proud of, and am having the hardest time wrapping my head around adding an FBA in order to eliminate too much fabric. Just yesterday I came across an article on the VPM website saying if you're above a B cup, I should use my chest measurement, not my bust measurement! Wha??? Why is it so hard Myrna?? Deep breath...... I would love to see a picture of your pattern after you did the FBA. I'd be tickled at this point to just get the underdress right.

    Girl, you have been on FIRE since your last DOL retreat -- one unique and perfectly executed garment after another!! I'm learning so much from your blog - a million thank yous.

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    1. Those lines can also means there's too much ease at the underarm so I pin that out first and then if there are still lines in the front but not the back, it's most likely the FBA. A huge ah ha for me was achieving my vertical measurements. Knowing where your bust point and your waist and your hip level are can make a huge difference. My back waist length is short and depending on what size I'm sewing I'll removed different amounts. For the original size of the dress, I removed 7/8" but for the two sizes smaller one it was 3/8". Knowing it should be 15 7/8" helps me know how much to adjust. Without that adjustment, a lot of fabric pools at my back waist pretending it needs a sway back adjustment but that wasn't actually the case. The other thing that really helped me was to work from the shoulders down and deal with one issue at a time. I do use my upper chest measurement and then adjust the cup size for the difference. That often takes care of the extra ease under the arm. Write me privately if you want some more input. Do you have Fit For Real People. There's a fabulous picture there of adding to a dartless garment. If not, I can post it.

      A million you're welcomes. I'm glad your learning. I did come back really enthused with lots of ideas to explore. It's good. Perfect - ? ? ? - LOL - not really, not up close but good and enough.

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    2. Thank you for the thoughtful response. No, I don't have Fit For Real People, although I've heard so many sewers recommend it. I think I'll treat myself to that one as well as Sewing For Plus Sizes. I really appreciate your helpful comments - you've renewed my enthusiasm. : ) Have a great weekend!

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  5. I absolutely LOVE this pattern (I made two versions, which is pretty much where I max out unless it's a basic TNT). I look forward to your finished piece!

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    1. Sorry. I missed a few replies what with my grandson distracting me. I LOVED your versions. They were very inspiring. I'm almost done my first one and I'll need to fine tune the side seams over the various pattern pieces but otherwise, it's working out quite well.

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Thanks for commenting. I appreciate the feedback and the creative conversation.