A couple weeks ago - when I went to Fabricland looking for buckles for the purse - I found this black with white curlicues, very stable, knit fabric on the bargain table. There was just two meters which was enough to make another...
... Marcy Tilton Vogue 9060 skirt. This is the third time this month that I've sewn this pattern and it's a fabulous lesson in the fabric factor.
This paisley version is a medium. After I sewed it, I realized that my hips would have to be near to invisible for this to sit smoothly over them so I gave the skirt to my teeny tiny friend even though I absolutely LOVE this fabric. Note the drape. The fabric is stable but has a lot more stretch than the curlicue knit and it falls nicely with shape and definition.
This black rib knit version is much Much MUCH softer. It's pretty but doesn't have the same definition as the earlier fabric. With this skirt, I sewed a larger size and it fits me better through the upper hip but it's almost too drapey - droopy and dragging - although it's a comfortable piece to wear - which is why I tried again.
Right now, this is a skirt for Millicent. It'll go in the when I get there box of clothes to look forward to as I lose weight. With the elastic waist, it's not super fitted which provides a wider wearing range. This time, I cut the waistband the finished width of 4" plus the 5/8" seam allowance for joining to the main body of the skirt plus 1 1/4" for a casing for 3/4" elastic and rounded that measurement up 6". The seam is pressed toward the waistband and away from the bulk of other seams. After seeing these pictures, I'm going to top-stitch this seam to keep the bulk sitting flat and in the right direction.
I committed with the elastic. I finished both it and the casing to what my waist will be when my hips fit this skirt so now, the waistband is what it is and I need to be what it is if I want to wear this skirt - VBG.
What I found really interesting is how visible the fabric factor is. The first skirt and this white curlicue one are the exact same size, sewn in an identical manner, and the pictures look like this last one is smaller and closer fitted. If I sew this pattern again, I'd think about going down a size for a fabric with more stretch and about either sewing smaller seam allowances or going up a size for a very stable knit.
Talk soon - Myrna
Grateful - a dialed down dress form
Before you put on clothes, slide into heels, spray perfume, or accessorize to step into the world; there is a wardrobe that every woman must first put on. bathe in forgiveness, dress in self-esteem, adorn yourself with praise and slip into joy. When you are fully clothed in self love, you are always in fashion.
- Sharon Rainey