Tuesday, February 10, 2015

Fine Tuning Vogue 9057

The pants performed only okay when I wore them yesterday. Center front of the waistband needs to be lifted about 3/4". I kept pulling them up because they were doing that pouching thing. This is fiddly and I could probably ignore it but I'll love them even more with the adjustment. I'm going to finish a few other garments first before that. When I get to them, I'll need to take the elastic out, remove the front section of the waistband, lower it about 5/8" at center front and angle the seam line to the hip, restitch, re-top stitch, and replace the elastic. It'll be good and worth it. I think I'll wear these pants a lot.





Remember paper doll me? I used view B of Vogue 9057 as my illustration and yesterday I started working on it. Since I can't tell by the paper top how much to shorten the real one, I started by adjusting the pattern tissue so that the short end would be my normal length. That's the image on the...





... left which as you can see is still too long so I pinned up a tuck increasing the size until I felt the proportions were right. I think it now looks about the same proportion as the paper top. This is another 2" shorter or 4" in total. That's interesting from a ready-to-wear perspective as well. When I went snoop shopping last week, everything seemed too long and I'm seeing women out in public looking far frumpier than necessary because their tops need shortening.

Yesterday was my coaching call with Diane. I sent the long and shortened images for feedback. She agreed that the shorter length was great and had a totally different suggestion for shortening it than I had - tucks versus whacking off the bottom. My assignment is to shorten the top 2" without cutting it off. There will be a future post about that process.





Along with shortening, I will fine tune the fit of the armhole. Above is the way the shoulder seam looked after I inserted the sleeve and below...





... sorry for the fuzzy picture... is the way it looks after pinning the seam to form an L shape. This is very similar to what happened with the crotch curve in yesterday's posting. Underarm and crotch curves have a lot in common. Mine are more L than J shaped.





Here's the line that I'll be stitching to get that better look. I'll make this adjustment to the front pattern tissue but leave the sleeve pattern as is for next time. The stretch of the knit is allowing me to get away with it this time but in most cases I would need that bicep width on the sleeve.





The grey knit goes wonderfully with the ugly experience fabric which is a heavy knit with great drape. It may be what is being referred to as scuba knit. I'm not sure. I wanted to sew a pair of one seam pants and had more than enough fabric except when I went to lay it out, the pattern goes crosswise and this print is linear. I didn't want lines across my hips so I'll use view B of the out of print McCall's 6515 instead.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - coaching

A mentor is someone who allows you to see the hope inside yourself. A mentor is someone who allows you to know that no matter how dark the night, in the morning joy will come. A mentor is someone who allows you to see the higher part of yourself when sometimes it becomes hidden to your own view.
- Oprah Winfrey

14 comments:

  1. Ok...this is getting funnier and funnier. I glanced at the paper doll and thought...oooh, I like that belt idea on her! (didn't realize it was just the overlap of the paper pattern)
    Then I glanced at the actual photo and thought...oh, that narrow belt is such a good idea, I wonder how tucks would look.

    And THEN I read the blog, and started to laugh. I LOVE the idea of pin tucks....it will be fun to see what you come up with.

    I have to say that you have inspired me to get going on my task of removing the front waistbands of all my rtw trousers and stitching them back on, 3" lower in center front. I'm having a hard time angling them back to the side seam in that half way between cf and side seam still needs to be lowered 2" or so it's hard to grade back to no lowering at the side seam. The angling thing doesn't work work well. You mentioned curving....I'm going to have to ponder that.

    It's a putzy task, and I don't do well with putzy. But those trousers fit so well after the adjustment, and I feel so much better wearing them that it really is worth all the putzy. Now to just make myself do it!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. LOL - like minds and all. I'm not sure about belts. I "never" wear anything tucked in or belted and yet there were a surprising number of tucked in and belted pictures in my files and I can see that might actually be something to experiment wiht more. This time - tucks.

      I'm so glad I've inspired you to alter the RTW trousers. That's the great advantage of sewing. We can not only make what we want we can make what we buy what we want. YES YES.

      Delete
    2. If not belts, then how about a separate band of fabric; something a shade darker / lighter than the main fabric, or the same colour, with some embellishments? Not on this version, obviously, but for future iterations?

      Delete
    3. Hmm... interesting. I did make something along that line a few years ago and loved the way it worked out. Something to think about. Thanks.

      Delete
  2. Proportions are so important. Did you shorten it at all before you cut it out? How much did you shorten in total?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I shortened the pattern tissue by 2" and it'll need another 2" for a total of 4". That seems like a huge amount but it's definitely what's needed.

      Delete
  3. I forgot to add that I think that this shorter version is much more flattering. It looks like you made it closer to the body as well, also a good choice.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks. The only change I made was to pin the tuck and see what that looked like. I didn't alter the sides at all. Amazing how that works isn't it. Too fun.

      Delete
  4. This is so awesome. I need to paperdoll myself! :-)

    Love, love, love the shorter version.

    ReplyDelete
  5. This is helpful! First for you, and second for me. :) I too like the shorter version on you, and I agree too many women are wearing tops too long for their height. Seeing the waist tuck on you, I think you ought to consider a "belt" tuck. You've mentioned in the past that you like to accentuate you waist, and what a perfect way to do that. You can always undo a basted attempt if you dislike it. I would have the "belt" be the same diameter as the top, not cinched in like a belt would, so things flow.

    I've hesitated making this view of V9057 due to knowing it's too long for me after making some other Marcy long tops. I'm 5'5" so not short by most standards. If I can get the proportions right, I'll make the sleeveless view too and layer them. It looks like you've removed 4" total, so that may be close to what I ought to try. I think you're 5'4"?

    I spent the day teaching my daughter-in-law how to sew. I was thrilled to see her excitement as she finished a pillow, and want to do more. She next cut out a simple baby dress with me explaining grain, selvedges, notches, etc. She and I both are looking forward to sewing together again next week. So fun to share the joy of sewing!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. YEAH - I'm glad it was helpful. Thanks for the suggestion of a "belt" tuck. I'll consider that. All well balanced garments are a matter of proportion don't you think. It takes some trial and error but then we start to get our numbers and after that it gets easier - and the paper doll mes help too. I haven't sewn anything asymmetrical in as long as I can remember so I started by making the shortest length what I knew was a good length on me and it looks like that will be the length at center with this second adjustment. Yes, I took off 4" total and I'm 5'4".

      HOW FUN to sew with your daughter-in-law. Lucky you. Enjoy.

      Delete
  6. Thanks for the input on the center of the asymmetry being your good length. I'll try that too. Funny that I recall your height. I must have thought, "she's an inch shorter than me" and filed that thought away. :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. You're welcome. LOL - I did wonder how you'd guess it so accurately. I'm actually just a smidgen under but not enough to bother. There are no graphs for 5' 3 3/4".

      Delete

Thanks for commenting. I appreciate the feedback and the creative conversation.