Monday, March 9, 2015

No Cut On Sleeves

After I finished the New Look 6273 jacket, I wanted to try the simple top. Just because. To see what happened because it looked like a simple canvas for trying all sorts of ideas. Perhaps a T & T in the making. There are three pieces: a front and a left and right back. The center back seam is utilized to leave an opening at the neck for getting the top on and off but it's not necessary. The neck is wide enough without it so the back could be cut on fold leaving only two pieces.



 


Two pieces on my body is rarely a good thing. I have too many curves that two pieces cannot curve around without some darts or shaping. There are no darts. There is no shaping. It tried it anyway. The sleeve is cut on and the armhole is too low for my petite sizing. As you can see above right, the excess bunched up horribly under the arm and - along with no shoulder seam - made me look frumpy.





I added "no cut on sleeves" to my checklist and then used another pattern to trace the armhole for a sleeveless top onto the front and back pattern pieces and then redrew that line to raise the underarm an inch and then...




... pinned the altered front and pack pattern pieces together at the shoulder seam to create a continuous pattern that I then pinned to the fabric after folding the edges together. I added "must have darts or seams" to my checklist.

Tomorrow, I'll show you how I finished the neck and armholes and then on Wednesday how I added width to the back. While there are far more flattering patterns for me to chose next time, the top finished up okay. It's wearable, not a wadder. And that's something to celebrate. When I first started sewing forty years ago, I would have rolled it up and thrown it at the nearest garbage can. I love that now, more often than not, I can figure out how to make it work - YES YES - and I always learn in the process. This is good.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - figuring out how to make it work


Through perseverance many people win success out of what seemed destined to be certain failure. 
- Benjamin Israeli

6 comments:

  1. You'd asked on Thursday if we'd like to see an alteration series....yes!!!! Your body shape is very similar to mine, and I've always learned a bunch watching how you alter a particular pattern. You totally inspire to me to keep on trying.

    I've been wanting to say for a while how much I enjoy your blog. I like that you're genuine, just sharing what you doing with us, much like a neighbor or friend.
    It's not a whole bunch of sponsored posts. Or guest posts. I really hate those. Especially when it's not clear at the top that it *is* a sponsored or guest post. You start reading, it's some weird topic, the writing doesn't sound like the blogger, and then you realize...oh, it's not them.

    I am sooo jealous of that second sewing room!!! And a sunny one besides! Good for you! There's nothing like a bright, airy room to keep a person feeling happy!

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    1. Thanks. I appreciate knowing that I come across genuinely. That's my aim. I'm working on the second studio right now, getting the pieces in place and it's such a treat. I'm going to enjoy having a dedicated jewelry workstation and I've already moved my yarn and knitting supplies in there. Fun.

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  2. "I added "no cut on sleeves" to my checklist ." heehee, it's on mine too :)

    I can make exceptions for a fabric with a very particular type of drape - if i run across a piece that's real spendy and i want to get a top out of the smallest amount possible, i know what to do. Otherwise, not worth the hassle!

    An alterations series would be fascinating and incredibly helpful! I think it really helps especially less experienced people to see all the big and little changes that help finesse the fit. I always encourage people to look around at the great variety of body shapes out there. It's ridiculous to expect one pattern to fit them all. But that's one of the main reasons we sew - so we can get that great fit.

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    1. No cut on sleeves and no exceptions for me. I've tried it too many times with too many failures. I need to be firm with myself. LOL

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  3. What pretty fabric! I would have loved to see more of the top on you - it can be very useful to see what doesn't work and even better if you also have pics of how to fix it. I am so totally with the other two commenters: something on pattern alteration with lots of photos would be fantastic! I know it's a pain to take lots of photos, but think of your grateful audience!

    I am incredibly on board with the "no cut on" sleeves and "must have darts" thing. I am tearing my hair out having tried and tried and tried with those 'simple' patterns, and decided to give up: darts there must be and proper sleeves too. I still produce way too much to throw at the dust bin... (let me heave a big sigh!)

    Maybe the next garment will work better!

    Thanks so much for this post, so encouraging!

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    1. Thanks. The fabric is a remnant and I only had a little bit. I'll show more of the top. When I wrote today's post I thought I had a picture of "after" the bunching but didn't. That would have been better.

      It's great fun - or at least I think it is - to try to take something from not working to working. Changing the cut on sleeves to sleeveless was a good start. If nothing else it teaches me where to go and where not to go.

      I'm glad you enjoyed the post.

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Thanks for commenting. I appreciate the feedback and the creative conversation.