Tuesday, March 17, 2015

Sleeves & Finished - Butterick 5678

Yesterday, I put the final coat of paint on the desk and a coat of polyurethane on the top and the top of the coffee table. Well... except for the drawer that needs to be fixed still. I'll be painting it separately once Howard has a chance to fix it and...





... that's okay. When it's done, I have the perfect knob that I bought in Astoria last September on my way home up the Oregon coast. The store only had one. I bought it thinking I'd find the right space and hopefully the desk is it. Today, I'll repair the sliders and put the drawers back in and then I can start pretty-ing up the room.





I finished the out of print Butterick 5678 blouse yesterday morning. There are a few tweaks to improve it even further and overall I'm quite happy with how it turned out. Since I haven't worn a woven blouse in ages, wearing it will be the real test of success.





Here it is on Millicent. The fabric is still a bit stiff and them hemline seems a bit stick-y-out-y. I think that's only a matter of a few wash and wears and then it'll settle down. Denim is like that.





This is the "ribbon" I used to stencil the collar with. I know it's the by-product of creating something else - confetti I think - but I'm not actually sure what this is called or even where to buy it. This piece was given to me and it's eventually going to wear out. Hopefully they have more at the dollar store.





I am particularly fussy about sleeves and like them to hang right without unnecessary wrinkles. If you look at my arm shape, you can see that the outline moves outward from a narrow shoulder to a fuller bicep. Even though I basted the first sleeves in and they looked okay, after I'd sewn the underarm seam I didn't like the way the sleeves hung. There were a lot of wrinkles and these types of pulls typically mean not enough cap height.





Above is the second sleeve. I added 1 1/2" to the cap height and it's significantly better. I'll add another 1/2" next time and I think that'll be about perfect.




Here's the underarm without the sleeve. I want to make a sleeveless version of this top. For that, I'll raise the underarm at least an inch and reduce the ease at the side significantly to have the garment fit closer to the body. I may also add another inch to the finished length. What do you think?

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - a wearable woven blouse

Everything we hear is an opinion, not a fact. Everything we see is a perspective, not the truth.
- Marcus Aurelius

34 comments:

  1. Honeycomb ribbon is what you're working with, and the fact that that was stored somewhere deep in my brainhousing made me laugh. For once some of that trivia is good for something!
    Love the collar detail; it could also look great on sleeve cuffs.

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    1. Thank you. Good to know what I'm looking for. I thought the stenciling would look good on the cuffs too only I try not to create a line at my hips. It's something to experiment with if I have more happening in other areas of the garment.

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    2. I was thinking of the kind of cuffs that flip up, which in a 3/4 sleeve would attract attention toward your waist. Just something to think about.

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    3. AH... I don't think I've made flippy cuffs in a million years but I like the idea of highlighting my slimmer parts. Thanks.

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  2. Interesting adjustment to the sleeve cap on this cute blouse. I agree that adding an inch to the length would look more proportional (is that a word)? I love your attention to fitting. Lack of fitting skills is why so many give up on sewing garments. I find that as we age it becomes more difficult to sew with standardized patterns as numerous adjustments are needed for most of us. Karen

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    1. Is it our aging bodies or our aging awareness? I can't imagine that my shoulders were any wider way back when but I sure know a lot more about fitting them, a narrow chest, and a high sleeve cap than I ever thought necessary.

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    2. Well I know when I was younger the only adjustment I needed to make was a lengthen bodice. Now I need the following additional adjustments: FBA, dowager's hump, thickened waist, heavy upper arms, protruding stomach and dropped, flat buttocks. It's reality but I still want to look my best and feel comfortable in well-fitting clothes so I make the effort and adjustments.

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    3. LOL - look at the challenge. And we learn. And pretty soon we're making those changes automatically ALTHOUGH... I have to say that's the benefit of T & T patterns. Just play. No more changes. I agree that it's worth it. I like well fitting clothes too.

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  3. Hi Myrna:
    I was working on a musical (at school with students) and our show has opened and closed so I now have more time! With Spring Break coming, my plan is to institute a 1 hour of sewing each morning...in the hopes I can maintain it through the rest of the school year...we'll see!
    I like the shirt/blouse - it's very well fitting and a great colour on you. I agree with the 1 inch more length - particularly in a less stiff/more flowy fabric. I made a shirt myself over Christmas break and have two more in the works. Really like how a tailored, well fitting shirt makes me feel.
    Take care,

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    1. I vote for just determining that you're going to take that hour no matter what and make it work. It's HUGELY beneficial. I think this is one of those shirts that I'll like more as I wash it because it'll soften as denim does. I'd like to try it in something more flowing though. I'll add the inch and we can all re-access.

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  4. The blouse looks great! My sleeves usually look like the one on the left - a hot mess! How did you do the alteration to add the extra cap height?

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    1. Thanks. I'll do the additional alteration and take pictures and post that for you.

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    2. Just so I'm clear - for your next version, you would add a full 2 inches to the cap height? 1.5 inches added this time, another .5 inches next time?

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    3. Yes. That's the addition I illustrated in today's posting. Now I'll try that sleeve and see what I think but 1/2" looks like about the right amount. 2" is quite a lot but the sleeve was fairly flat for what the illustration shows to be a set in sleeve so it makes sense.

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  5. Thanks for the detail on the ribbon you used as a stencil. I see it in multiple metallic colors all the time at the floral markets around Christmas time, just in case you want more. And thanks, too, for those clear hints in fitting a sleeve cap.

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    1. AH... I'll look in the floral section at the dollar store. That should work great. You're welcome for the hints.

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  6. Thanks for detail on sleeve cap height. I have the same wrinkles. Add 1/2" which didn't seem to help. I'll try again knowing that you added 1.5" and plan to make it 2".

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    1. When you get to a sleeve cap that fits really well, measure from the bicep line up to the cap and in all likelihood that's a measurement you'll maintain. I used to settle for 6 1/2" but I'm closer to 7" now that I'm doing even more tweaking.

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  7. I have been following sdBev's sleeve saga online, and when I saw your denim sleeve folds I immediately thought not only of my own difficulties but that Bev needed to see this! My big question is that how difficult did you find it to be to ease in the additional fabric generated by raising the sleeve cap so much? I know that my TNT pattern has a very shallow sleeve cap line, and I get similar wrinkles in my sleeves. I have been afraid to try adding additional fabric for some reason, having to do with too much fabric to ease in and concern about also not being able to raise my arms... Seeing how excellent your sleeve looks with the alteration, I just may try it!

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    1. It wasn't difficult to ease in at all. I had room for more. The critical component is the two rows of basting stitches. I do one at 3/8" and one at 4/8". Try it and see. If you can't ease it in, you can put the eliminate some of the cap height. For me, I want to learn how to ease it in well because I need that high narrow cap. I'm assuming it'll be practice making "perfect" as every time I try, it gets easier and I know I really didn't like set in sleeves way back when for that exact reason.

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  8. It looks like sequin sprue to me (ie the sections left after sequins have been cut out)

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  9. WoW Myrna that is just perfect! You look so great, that awesome just right fit - not too precious or tight, easy but not sloppy. I hope like heck that it's a great to wear as you look in it! woOT!!

    And thank you for the post on collar and band construction - what a neat way to go about it and a fantastic trick for us all to have 'up our sleeves', as it were. Happy Day to you and Ms. C! steph

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    1. LOL - nice to know I got the fit so close to perfect. A little tweaking... but there's always a little tweaking especially with the fabric factor to consider. You're welcome for the info on the collar/band. It's a great trick. VBG - up our sleeves.

      Miss Chloe is being a lady of leisure. She's commandeered the wicker chair and created a nest with the fabrics I'd put there and every once in a while deigns to glance up at me... merely to see if I might have yummies I'm sure.

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  10. That's a great top on you! And I'm like everyone else -- very interested in your sleeve adjustments and how you did it:)

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    1. Thank you. I'm just about finished the project I'm working on today and then I'll draw the diagrams - hopefully tomorrow's posting.

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  11. That stuff is sequin waste, as it is left over from making sequins.

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    1. Thanks. I knew it was something like that. Confetti is more paper-like.

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  12. Great post and comments! I need all the help I can get with sleeves!

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  13. As someone who has just struggled with inserting sleeves into a blazer and moaned about the cap height this was a very interesting post. Didn't realize that the cap height affected the wrinkling in the sleeve. Really thought it was a bad insertion - well it was - but this gives me more to think about!

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    1. If there is too much cap height, you'll get puckers that pull from the seam. If there's not enough cap height, you'll get these wrinkles. Finding the perfect in-between is a journey.

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  14. the "stencil" you used is called "sequin waste" or "punchanella" available at some craft stores or floral shops...

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Thanks for commenting. I appreciate the feedback and the creative conversation.