Thursday, April 30, 2015

I Just Couldn't Help It

During my morning hour in the studio, I don't do any fiddly fitting. I'm just waking up and I'm not dressed so if it requires advanced thinking skills or lingerie, it waits til later. Yesterday morning, I cut out a black linen, sleeveless top, fifteen pieces, all single layer, Butterick 5891. I've sewn this top before - once unsuccessfully and once successfully only the fabric turned out to be poor quality and the top didn't last. It's a fun piece to work on and while I'm doing that...

... I can problem solve with the fabric Claire brought me from Paris. To get the correct length, I'll need to combine it with another fabric so I researched lace. The blouses above illustrate the two different options - lace yokes or a lace back. I have a box of lace pieces and none of the yardage was purple, white, cream, or silver. In fact - no surprise - most of it was black but luckily Fabricland has lace on 50% off this week so I picked up enough white to play with. I will try painting it but...

... have you ever hoped a color would run? I threw the lace in the washer on hot with more of the purple pant fabric hoping some of the purple would bleed and tinge the lace. No such luck. The purple was on sale - 70% off - and I just couldn't help it - I had to buy more and use the exact same fabric to try the alterations to the pant pattern and see if they came out exactly right the first time, no fitting needed.

When I talked about a squared crotch curve, this is what I meant. I started adjusting the crotch shape by taking out another inch of hip depth across the front pattern piece and a tapered inch across the back pattern piece leaving the center back crotch length as it was. Then, I drew the dotted black line showing the stitching - in pencil first - and compared it to what I had actually stitched on the pants. It wasn't just close. The measurements were identical which gives me hope for adjusting without as much fitting in the future. The crosshatched section will get cut out. I don't need it.

I noticed some pulls when fitting the crotch curve that indicated not enough fabric so I opened up the side seam to let the fabric hang free. The amount is not a lot but enough to cause issues. When I adjusted the pattern, I trued the side seam which added almost 1/2" to that area or 1" in total across the back. I also made the seam allowance 1" wide in case I need to further let it out. The only thing I'll do different this time is to add some darts to the front to take out fullness. I need the width at my front thigh but not at the waist.

I added back 1 1/4" of length below the knee based on the inseam measurement of my other pair. This second purple pair shouldn't look too short this time although I will be interested to see what happens at the heel. Above, it looks like the cuff is pulling up in the back which totally could have been caused by after-the-fact alterations. With doing them in advance, I'm hoping for different results but either way, it won't be a problem because the pants will be longer and resting on my shoes.

Have you ever sewn the exact same garment in the exact same fabric to see if what you're hoping will happen actually happens? I've done that before with muslin but not with a fashion fabric. I'm intrigued to see if I have learned enough to make these kinds of changes with confidence during the cutting stage. Can I trust my measurements and my instincts? It'll be good learning and I know I can refashion the original pair into something else along with the scraps. That too will be learning. All good.

Talk soon - Myrna

Grateful - the ability to experiment

I have no special talents. I am only passionately curious.
- Albert Einstein

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