Friday, May 1, 2015

Start To Finish With No Fitting

Near the end of his book A Whack on the Side of the Head, author Roger von Oech talks about the four roles that are our team for generating and implementing new ideas. They are the explorer for searching for new information and resources, the artist for turning those resources into new ideas, the judge for evaluating the merits of an idea and deciding what to do with it, and the warrior for carrying your idea into action.

In his follow-up book A Kick in the Seat of the Pants, he discusses using each role in much greater detail. I've just started working through that book. I'm looking forward to learning because while my explorer is generating a lot of ideas, my artist could stand to play a bit more, my judge could temper her critique somewhat, and my warrior is wimpy.

I could tell you all the right lines for getting around it and moving forward because I've told them to my students but what I realized last weekend was that fear had a really good grip on parts of my studio. There are things that I really Really REALLY want to do that I'm avoiding for fear of failure and other things that I want to want to do because I think they are safe. Perhaps Kick will give me the good kick that I need.

One of the things my explorer loves to do get my artist to do is play with ways of perfecting fit. Yesterday, I used the adjusted pattern to sew the second pair of purple pants from start to finish with no fitting. It was so fun to focus on doing my neatest best work and enjoying the process of the piece coming together without taking it on and off and analyzing fit. I'm really pleased with how they turned out. The results tell me I'm making progress.

I took out a significant amount of extra fabric at the waist - 6" - by curving the side seam and incorporating a dart. It's a bit drastic and leaves a pouff at the side that's not really noticeable with the elastic waist. The decrease would be better accomplished as smaller darts front and back and even so, it's good.

My learning about fitting pants is coming along. I see the crotch point as similar to the bust point and the hip depth as similar to the armhole depth and the waist as similar to the shoulder point. Sometimes I draw a box around the underarm and move it up because the bust point is already where it needs to be and other times I take a fold through the upper chest and move them both up. The correlation is the same.

Sometimes I'll draw a box around the hip depth and move it up because the crotch point is already where it needs to be and other times I'll take a fold across and move them up together and then I'll measure the front and back crotch lengths to make sure neither is too short or too long and adjust as necessary with a tapered inset or fold.

I'm quite pleased with the front of my new pants. I think the back is close but not quite. I'll probably still fiddle with it on a pair with no pleats since the pull of the pleats makes it hard to see for sure but those curved wrinkles suggest a bit more shaping is needed.

These purple pants go with six of the seven tops in my cruise collection so I'll definitely be taking them along. I figured that would happen - that I'd feel comfortable once I had enough clothes together and then I'd start playing with what would get added or deleted from the mix. I'll be to show you the final selections before I leave. The black linen Butterick 6891 I'm working on now has a good chance of making it too.

Talk soon - Myrna

- 6/7 without planning is not bad

We shall not cease from exploration, and the end of all our exploring will be to arrive where we started and know the place for the first time. 
- T. S. Eliot


  1. The real test of a pair of pants is not in the standing in front of the is in the sitting. I make all my clients sit on a hard chair to make sure the back crotch length is long enough. If the waist pulls down in the back, then you only have a pair of "stand-up" pants and will know that you expose the top of your panties.

  2. oh, those pants will be a wonderful addition to your cruise collection. I have really been enjoying watching the whole shebang come together and envying all those great new clothes you've made!! how fun, and really a great way to treat yourself :)

    I hear you too on the joy of whipping something up and having it turn out fantabulous. That's why we put in all those blood sweat and tears, after all ;) I love a black B6891 with those pants as well, it seems like an iconic Myrna outfit!!!

    Happy Weekend!!!

    1. I think they will be too. Those two curved wrinkles are bugging me so I'll probably try pinning that out. It's not a lack of length so I think I just need to take it in a bit at the curve.

      The B6891 is a "just sew" project as well since I've already tested the pattern. I'm at the button stage and it has come together the cleanest ever. I think I'd better write down the order before I have to figure it out again. It's much neater than the instructions would have created.

      Black and purple equals iconic Myrna. Hmm... could be - VBG.


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