There's another pair of skinny pants cut out and ready to sew this morning. I'm looking forward to making them because the fitting questions are out of the way and my focus will be on doing my best job with a little fine tuning as I go.
Often the first time I sew a pattern is more complicated but it's rarely a total fail except for yesterday - and even that wouldn't have been a total fail if I'd been willing to do the work - as in remove the sleeves, take off the collar, raise the shoulders, reshape the neckline, reshape the armhole, restitch the collar and sleeves, and move the waist shaping down. That was TOO MUCH WORK. I'd basically be resewing the garment and in that case, I'd rather just resew it.
I'm making Vogue 9089. When I adjusted the pattern prior to sewing this first version, I made a 3/4" narrow back and narrow chest adjustment and raised the armhole 1 1/8" due to the difference between my center back length and the length of the pattern. I took the amount out through the armhole because I could see that it was too low. I figured that would be enough, possibly too much, and I didn't measure. I should have.
In this picture, it doesn't look too bad but you can already see the droop lines from the shoulder to the waist. These are there because the armhole is too low and the garment isn't fitted at the side seam. When I added the sleeves, there was a lot of bunching and wrinkling.
When I placed my armhole template underneath, the difference between the pattern and the template was 1 3/4" which means the armhole needed to be raised a total of 2 7/8" - the initial 1 1/8" plus an additional 1 3/4". That's a lot. No wonder it wasn't looking too good.
I started by tracing the armhole in the back and then moving the underarm point up 1 3/4" and taping the new shape to the old one.
I used a French Curve to draw a tighter curve (the line with the Xs on it) and that still didn't look right so I lay my template on top and traced that line.
In this image, the dotted line is the previous armhole and the higher solid line that is cut out is my back armhole shape. I squared out the edge slightly more.
In the front, the shift was even more dramatic. The pencil line is where the raised curve ended up and the black line is the new shape. The arrow pointing to the small dot is where I needed to make sure my chest would finish at 7" to center front.
Along with raising the armhole, I shortened the finished length. I'd been wondering how to figure that out when I got an email suggesting finger tip length. That was 3" shorter and since there were no lengthen and shorten lines on the pattern, I took the length off the bottom making it slightly less full. I'd already done that with the "failed" version so I know the length will work for my next version. Unfortunately, I don't have more of that blue fabric. It was perfect to go with the floral skinny pants. I'll find something else I'm sure but first... new skinny pants.
Talk soon - Myrna
Grateful - learning pattern alterations